At the end of almost every meal, I used to reach for something sweet and packaged. A couple of biscuits with my coffee, a square or four of chocolate, a little pot of some dessert I had bought precisely so it would be there. It was automatic, the full stop at the end of the …
On a July afternoon on a beach near Malaga, the sand is covered with people lying deliberately in the full midday sun, turning at intervals like something on a spit, chasing the deep brown tan that Spanish summer culture prizes. To an American dermatologist, the scene is close to a horror film: hundreds of people …
A family of four checking into a Barcelona hotel for a week in the summer of 2026 can now expect a line on the final bill that did not sting nearly as much a year ago. The city’s tourist tax climbed again this spring, and for a stay in a good hotel the charge can …
An American couple in their early sixties opens a letter from their Fidelity brokerage in their Valencia apartment. The letter says their accounts will be restricted in 60 days and closed in 120 days because Fidelity does not service accounts held by non-US residents. They have $980,000 in those accounts. The closure means liquidating positions …
For years, my afternoons were a slow, unbroken graze. A handful of almonds at my desk, a biscuit with a cup of coffee, a few crackers while I answered an email, a square of chocolate because it was there. I never sat down to any of it, never really tasted it, and never once thought …
An American retiree living in Spain, with no job and no Spanish pension, can buy full access to the country’s public health system for a flat €157 a month, roughly $170. That fee is the same whether they live on a modest savings account or a comfortable investment portfolio, and once they are in, there …
At six in the morning, before the coffee machines are even warm, a particular kind of guest is already moving. They pad down to the shuttered pool in flip-flops, towels under one arm, and wait. When the gate opens they move fast, draping a towel over the best lounger, then a second, then a third …
You can order sangria and no one will stop you. But if you want to drink like a Spaniard, skip the tourist jug and ask for the simple things locals actually buy: a chilled tinto de verano, a Sunday vermut, or a small glass of vino joven that often costs about the price of a …
The plates have been cleared for half an hour. The coffee cups are empty, one glass of wine is going warm, and nobody at the table has made any move to leave. In an American restaurant a waiter would have dropped the check by now, twice. Here, in a small place in a Spanish town, …
Watch the evening paseo in any Spanish town and you will see them. Women in their sixties in pressed linen, walking arm in arm at a pace they could hold for hours, faces lined but somehow light. Men the same age in proper shoes, straight-backed, arguing about football with their hands. We see it every …
On Idealista, Spain’s biggest property site, a stone house in a Teruel village can be had for €8,000, about $8,600. It will be a ruin. For €19,000, roughly $20,500, you can find one with walls that still stand true and a roof that has not entirely given up. Either way you are buying into one …
In early July, Sevilla and Córdoba close their shutters against afternoons of 42 degrees Celsius (108°F), and the Mediterranean beaches pack towel to towel under the same heat. Eight hundred kilometers north, the people of Gijón are deciding whether the evening calls for a light jacket. This is the coast the title means: the green …