For most of the twentieth century, sleeping in the afternoon was something a certain kind of American filed under the very old, the very young, and the frankly lazy. Then, in 2007, a large study out of Greece handed the afternoon nap a cardiology defense, and the people who had been quietly napping all along …
For a single retiree, €1,200 a month, around $1,400, does not sound like much. In most of the United States it would barely cover rent, and in the fashionable corners of Spain, the Costa del Sol or central Madrid, it would leave you counting carefully. But Spain is a large and unevenly priced country, and …
For a growing number of American retirees, the reason for leaving is not the weather or the food or the romance of Europe. It is the healthcare. After a working life spent fearing medical bills, and facing retirement with Medicare premiums, supplement plans, deductibles and the ever-present dread of a catastrophic diagnosis, many older Americans …
A Spanish family meal does not end when the food does. The plates are cleared, or half cleared, and everyone stays. The talk keeps going, coffee appears, maybe a small glass of something, and an hour later the same people are still at the same table, in no hurry to be anywhere else. A lunch …
The Spanish town empties into the street at dusk. Not to go anywhere in particular. The families come down from the flats, the older couples take each other’s arms, the children run ahead and circle back, and the whole population drifts up and down the same few streets in the cooling air. This is el …
Two American retirees start with the same nest egg: three hundred thousand dollars in savings, plus a typical Social Security check. One settles in Florida, the classic American retirement destination. The other moves to Spain. A few years later, their financial situations look nothing alike, and the difference is not luck or spending habits. It …
Talk to enough American retirees who have built happy lives in Spain, and a pattern starts to emerge. It is not that the ones who thrive are richer, or younger, or better at Spanish, or luckier in their choice of town. The thing they have in common is something they did before they ever committed …
There is a line in the Spanish calendar that most people moving to the country never notice until it has already cost them money. Spend more than 183 days in Spain during a single calendar year and you become a Spanish tax resident, and a Spanish tax resident owes Spanish tax on their worldwide income, …
Look up in any Spanish city and the whole street is doing its washing in public. Shirts and sheets, socks and underwear, hang from lines strung across balconies and between buildings, flapping over the traffic in full view of anyone who cares to look. Nobody cares to look. The laundry is simply there, the way …
For the price of a couple of coffees, a retiree in Spain can buy a small card that knocks up to forty percent off train fares across the entire country for a full year. It costs six euros, about six and a half dollars. It is available to anyone over sixty, whether they live in …
A family sits down at a restaurant in Seville, orders lunch, and asks for water. A waiter brings two large bottles of mineral water and, at the end of the meal, adds them to the bill: several euros for water that came out of a factory. The family pays without thinking, as tourists do across …
Picture a single American retiree who traded a mid-sized US city for the Spanish coast, and now rents a two-bedroom apartment in Alicante for six hundred and fifty euros a month, roughly seven hundred and ten dollars. Back home, that figure would not have covered a small one-bedroom, let alone left anything over. Here, it …