Spain is still one of the easier European countries to love from a distance. The harder part is building a life there after the first apartment lease, first visa renewal, first tax scare, and first winter without the people who used to know you automatically. The first year in Spain can feel like an exhale. …
A restaurant in Barcelona on a Wednesday evening at 9:15pm. The dining room is moderately full. The conversation level is the lower-volume Spanish dinner pattern. An American family of four has been seated near the center of the room. The parents are engaged in a continuous management dialogue with their seven-year-old daughter and ten-year-old son. …
An American sits down in Spain, Italy, or France, opens the menu, and starts hunting for the familiar warm-up act. Where are the mozzarella sticks. The spinach dip. The platter designed to keep six adults occupied for nine loud minutes. The edible group project that arrives before the “real” food. Sometimes the answer is that …
You can still eat a weekday lunch in Spain for about €12 to €15 if you sit down for a proper menú del día. Come back at 8pm, order roughly the same amount of food from the regular menu, and the bill can land much closer to €28. That gap is not a tourist trick. …
Put a platter of buttered corn on the cob on an American cookout table and it disappears in minutes, a beloved and unquestioned staple of summer. Put the same platter in front of a room of Europeans and you may get some polite confusion, a few raised eyebrows, and, from at least a couple of …
So here is the mismatch. A French grandmother eats cheese every day and stays lean enough to climb four flights. An American on a diet app logs one bite of cheddar and the screen screams in red. Europe treats cheese like a daily food with rules. The United States treats cheese like a guilty event. …
There is a small, almost embarrassingly simple idea that nutrition researchers keep returning to, testing it again and again because it keeps working, and it costs nothing and forbids nothing. The idea is this: eat your vegetables and your protein first, and save the bread, rice, potatoes, and pasta for last. Not less of them, …
Ask the internet what a woman over fifty should eat in summer and you will drown in cleanses, green juices, restriction plans and lists of foods to fear. So let me offer something different, which is not a plan at all but a portrait. This is roughly what a real day of eating looks like …
A waiter at a busy aperitivo bar in central Milan watches an American couple sit down at one of his tables at 6:45pm. They look at the cocktail menu briefly. The husband orders a Long Island Iced Tea. The wife orders a frozen strawberry margarita. The waiter takes the order professionally, walks to the bar, …
For a month I gave up the great American ritual of the weekly grocery haul, the overflowing cart, the trunk full of bags, the fridge packed to bursting on a Sunday, and I shopped the way much of Europe shops instead, a little most days, buying what I actually needed for the next meal or …
If you have European friends, you may have noticed something odd about the timing of the school year. While American children are only now trudging back to their classrooms around Labor Day, a great many European children have already been back for weeks, some since well into August. French kids returned in early September for …
Most people think a Spanish winery visit means standing in a cellar, swirling a glass, nodding along to talk of oak and tannins, and then getting back in the car. But the best of them do not end at the tasting room. They end at a table, with a long, unhurried, multi-course lunch served right …