In a Portuguese kitchen, fish is not a special occasion. It is Tuesday. The women of Portugal, and especially the older generation, have eaten fish several times a week their entire lives, grilling sardines on the balcony, simmering salt cod into a hundred dishes, and treating the daily catch of the Atlantic as the ordinary …
Walk into a Spanish supermarket, head for the milk, and you will not find it in a chilled cabinet. It sits on an ordinary dry shelf, stacked in cartons at room temperature, next to the coffee and the sugar. To an American shopper this looks alarming, even a little unsafe. To a Spaniard it is …
Spend enough time studying the oldest people in Europe and you start looking for the pattern, the one thing they all have in common that explains those long, vigorous lives. The obvious candidates are diet and exercise, the two levers the whole wellness industry pulls. Yet when you line up the longest-living Europeans side by …
Walk through a village on a Greek island and you will meet women in their seventies, eighties and beyond with skin that has clearly seen a lot of sun and a lot of life, and yet carries a kind of health and vitality that expensive routines rarely buy. Ask one of them about her skincare …
Look into any neighborhood bar in Spain on a weekday morning and you will find them. Men in their seventies and eighties, settled at the counter or a small table, nursing a coffee or a small beer, arguing over the newspaper, slapping down dominoes, greeting everyone who walks in by name. They will be there …
Italian dinner happens at 8:30 or 9:00pm. American nutrition advice has spent decades insisting that eating late causes weight gain, that the body stores evening calories as fat, that the kitchen should close by 7:00pm. The Italians eat late and maintain lower obesity rates than Americans who eat early. This apparent paradox confuses Americans who …
For most of the twentieth century, sleeping in the afternoon was something a certain kind of American filed under the very old, the very young, and the frankly lazy. Then, in 2007, a large study out of Greece handed the afternoon nap a cardiology defense, and the people who had been quietly napping all along …
An American rents an apartment in Madrid or Rome or Berlin, throws open the window on the first warm evening, and stops short. There is nothing there. No screen, no mesh, no barrier of any kind between the room and the open air, just a window that swings wide onto the street. For a person …
Walk into a modest restaurant in a Spanish town at half past one on a weekday, and you can eat three courses, with bread and a drink included, for around €14, roughly $15. A starter, a main, and a dessert, cooked that morning, brought to your table by someone who has done it ten thousand …
An 84-year-old man in a hill town in Tuscany walks to the cafe at 7:30am. He has done this approximately 18,000 times across his adult life. The cafe is 600 meters from his house. He orders his espresso at the bar, exchanges greetings with the three other regulars who arrive within the same 20-minute window, …
A Spanish family meal does not end when the food does. The plates are cleared, or half cleared, and everyone stays. The talk keeps going, coffee appears, maybe a small glass of something, and an hour later the same people are still at the same table, in no hurry to be anywhere else. A lunch …
A woman in her early sixties stands at her apartment door in Lucca. She has been here for 26 months. She is going home to Pittsburgh. She is not unusual. Most American women over 58 who move to Italy do this. The return is rarely about Italy. It is about specific structural factors that the …