An American man walks up to a public swimming pool in France, ready for a swim, wearing the same knee-length board shorts he wears at every pool back home. The attendant stops him at the entrance and refuses to let him in. The problem is not the man, or his behaviour, or his ticket. It …
The expensive mistake is not ordering the wrong wine or asking for parmesan on seafood. It usually happens before the first plate arrives: sitting down before checking the menu for coperto, servizio, bread charges, and table pricing. A lot of Americans walk into an Italian restaurant the way they walk into one at home. Find …
The damage is usually done before the menus arrive. An American walks into an Italian restaurant, and within the first ten minutes, often the first ten seconds, has broken three or four unwritten rules without the faintest idea, while the staff exchange the small glance that means tourists, and the evening settles into the polite, …
At around ten in the morning on a building site in Spain, something happens that would puzzle most Americans. The drills go quiet, the workers down tools, and everyone heads to the nearest bar. Not for a coffee to gulp on the way back, but to sit down to a proper meal: a fat sandwich, …
The Mediterranean diet has been studied for cardiovascular effects for more than sixty years. The general findings are well established. What has received less attention in American health writing is a specific Spanish eating habit that researchers and increasingly cardiologists have been identifying as one of the strongest individual contributors to the blood pressure improvements …
Every American approaching retirement hears the same advice about Social Security, and it comes down to one word: wait. Claim later, get a bigger check, and do not leave money on the table by starting at 62. That advice is sound, and it is built almost entirely on the cost of living in the United …
The Spanish grandmothers I have watched cook here all seem to run their kitchens the same way, out of a cupboard rather than out of a shopping list. There is always a jar of dried chickpeas, a row of good tins, a bottle of olive oil doing far more work than seems fair, and almost …
They had done everything right. Two careers in Ohio classrooms, decades of showing up before the first bell, summers spent grading and planning, and at the end of it two teachers’ pensions that were supposed to carry them through a comfortable retirement. And yet, as they sat with their numbers in the town where they …
The first summer I spent in Spain, I did everything wrong. I threw the windows open in the afternoon to let some air in, I kept busy through the middle of the day, I drank cold water by the liter and wondered why I still felt wrung out, and I treated the heat as something …
There is a week in September, usually the one after the first properly cool evening, when the cooking of an entire continent quietly changes gear. The salads and cold plates and grilled things of summer go back in the drawer, the big heavy pots come out, and across Europe the same instinct takes hold at …
The Swiss save more of their income than almost anyone in the developed world, with a household saving rate that runs around 18%, the highest in Europe, against a European Union average closer to 6%. That gap is not simply an accident of high Swiss salaries, though the salaries help. It is a method, a …
Portugal eats more fish per person than almost anywhere else in Europe, and after years of watching my Portuguese neighbors work their way through sardines and grilled sea bass and salt cod without a second thought, I got curious enough to copy them on purpose. For sixty days I ate the Portuguese way, which mostly …